Za’atar

Named after a roughly ground mixture of thyme, sumac (an ancient spice with a touch of acidity) and sesame seeds, Za'atar brings modern Middle Eastern cuisine to the shores of Dragon Bay in Shunyi. Ghassan Barhoumeh, the restaurant's owner and chef, grew up eating za'atar and shares his enthusiasm for it with every diner who walks through the door.

Za'atar's menu extends beyond the familiar territory of baba ghanoush and couscous to fa-khad, oven-roasted lamb knuckle, and maklouba, a layered dish of rice, chicken and vegetables. All are beautifully presented. Not only does the menu note vegetarian options but ‘kid approved' dishes as well.

A complimentary plate of za'atar, pita bread, olives and olive oil surprises because the latter two are sourced from China. The olives, while not great, are better than what pass for olives in many Beijing restaurants, but the olive oil lacks fruitiness and tastes as bland as vegetable oil. Barhoumeh proudly explains that, except for baklava, which requires butter, he cooks solely with olive oil. However one can't help feeling that using such bland-tasting olive oil restrains the flavours in his otherwise well-prepared food.

Mezza (starters) such as foul (25RMB), broadbeans mixed with garlic and olive oil, and tabouleh (25RMB), a parsley and cracked wheat salad, are light and pleasing. Shawerma, a type of wrap with thinly sliced marinated chicken inside a freshly made flatbread similar to an Indian roti, is good but needs the accompanying aioli to perk it up. Fakhad (65RMB), the lamb knuckle, is hardier fare and served with mashed potatoes. A light and delicious way to finish a meal is with basbousa, a cross between a biscuit and a cake, usually made of semolina and ground almonds but here cornmeal stands in for semolina.

Za'atar's peaceful lakeside terrace comes just in time for summer al fresco dining and the interior's simple wooden tables and muted colour scheme create a low-key, casual ambiance. Service is both helpful and friendly.