Xiao Restaurant

Stepped up Guizhou

Xiao's interior design is worthy of an award for packing so much into a relatively small space. The bright white dining area rises from the entrance like giant steps such that on each level a small, individual dining space flanks either side of the central staircase. Slim stalks of bamboo, painted white, and thin stainless steel cables delineate each dining space giving them a cosy, private room ambiance yet with the vibe of a large, open restaurant. The kitchen is tucked under the steps.

Not all of Xiao's food succeeds as well as its décor. Guizhou cuisine is known for its spiciness but here the spice comes across as one dimensional rather than possessing the nuanced variations that are possible even when the spiciness is taken to the extreme. Huoshao qiezi (16RMB) intrigues with its charred strips of aubergine and green chillies but unfortunately those flavours are obliterated by a dousing of fiery hot chilli oil. Meanwhile the Guai lu fan (22RMB), stir-fried rice with mushrooms, peas and sausage, manages only a mild chilli kick despite the copious dried chillies folded in. Miao xiang paigu (48RMB) are disappointing pork ribs sprinkled with mint, rock-hard soybeans, garlic and chillies, a mixture that exacerbates the meat's dryness.

However one dish worth going back for is the liang ban jue cai (12RMB), a subtly spicy mixture of fern, fresh bamboo, soybeans, coriander, garlic and a local purple stemmed vegetable. Another worthy dish is Miao ling duo yu (48RMB), a whole fish cut into segments with chunks of tomatoes, garlic and spring onion in an addicting spicy and sour sauce for which Guizhou is famous. Unfortunately, heimi jiu, a black rice wine that might cut through the thick chilli heat, isn't yet available. The menu is in Mandarin only but cheerful staff helpfully match the photos to the dish.