Gradska kavana

Very much the grande dame of the Zagreb coffee-and-cakes scene, the ‘City Café’ is a beautifully-restored piece of 1930s Art-Deco, its all-white interior centring on a quartet of fat pillars holding up a curvy-balustraded mezzanine. The two levels are linked by a Y-shaped staircase guarded by a brassy pair of nudes (statues that is, not real people). The white-shirt black-apron wait-staff are a model of courteous efficiency. The regular clientele is a bit on the blue-rinse side; although the Gradska kavana’s cakes and ice creams are sufficiently delectable to ensure that this is the ideal place to bring your aunt/hot date/post-exam child.  Coffee is a few kuna more expensive than elsewhere but is a long way from being the best in town – dedicated caffeine addicts are best advised to jump-start their day elsewhere.