The critics love it, the punters love it and so will you: a meal at Chapter One is easily the most accessible, affordable and enjoyable fine-dining experience in Dublin. The dining room is warm and tasteful, service is formal but easy-going, and the food is haute cuisine yet down to earth - plus the restaurant is located near to the Gate Theatre, which means that it also offers an excellent pre-theatre set menu. As for the cooking, it is nothing short of spectacular. A starter of sea bream might be served with caponata, pungent olive oil and a basquaise red pepper purée; among the mains, squab pigeon might get a white truffle and honey glaze, while hake and langoustine would be partnered by roast fennel, braised squid and a tomato and shellfish sauce. All followed, perhaps, by poached meringue with 'amaretto anglaise' and pistachio. Needless to say, the wine list is excellent, and the list of top-flight local meat, fish and vegetable suppliers speaks for itself.