A wine shop, deli and almost accidental restaurant (that side of the business just evolved on its own), the adorable French Paradox is a joy to behold: lead-topped counters, orange leather banquettes and exposed brick walls make for a stylish backdrop. And to sharpen the appetite, the deli's platters of delicious Irish and French cheeses, cured meats and pâtés are everywhere you look. It's mouth-watering stuff. There's always one hot main course (a daube, stew or something similarly robust) but the way to get the most out of FP is to order several dishes, spread them out like a kind of indoor picnic and pick away. This is all about savouring, not so much with the troughing. But wine is this place's true raison d'être, and advice on that subject is plentiful (and not of the hectoring, snobby variety that one all too often encounters in sommeliers of posh restaurants). The wine-tasting evenings (every Tuesday) are great fun.