Situated in the old Jewish ghetto, Europe's second oldest synagogue is worth visiting for its fascinating two-room museum. There are ceremonial horns, prayer books and Torah pointers but the real treasure is the documentation. You can trace the arrival from Spain of the first registered Jewish citizen (in 1421), through full Jewish emancipation in 1808, to the seemingly innocent Croatian government official paper of the 1940s. Here in the shocking simplicity of black and white, we see the confiscation of Jewish property, the forced identification of Jewish stores, the restriction of movement and gatherings, and the compulsory wearing of badges and armbands. Croatia was a willing fascist ally, it had concentration camps and Jews were taken to them. This is a stark reminder of something that is little discussed these days.