Ah, Dubrovnik. Just when you think you're in a residential neighbourhood of allotments and exclusive hotels, along comes a bar full of hairy-arsed bikers. Actually, the Libertas chapter are a friendly bunch. Old locals drift in for a beer - where else is there to drink in Ploče? - and sit incongruously against the photographic mementos of Libertas Riders' campaigns, Poreč 2001 and so on. Predictable rock soundtrack and soft porn in the bogs.