Here in Gruž Bay. A dozen tables are set on a sea-lapped terrace under the shade of a huge pine tree, a summer retreat enjoyed by cats and diners. There are places inside if it's raining. Menu highlights include oyster soup, octopus salad, lobster and Dalmatian rib-eye steak. The house wine is so cheap you fear Orsan might go out of business. Gooey puddings (walnut or chocolate pancakes, knickerbocker glory) extend the meal past bedtime.