Gil's has recently changed hands, and the city's gourmets are agog to see how the new guard will change things. First major change is the name:...
Sv Dominika
A real find, this, opened in the summer of 2006. Facing Gruž harbour across the water, Blidinje comprises a rustic ground-floor space of two dozen covers,...
Lapadska obala 21
The more haphazard of the two open-air bars cut into the sea-facing rocks, Buža I welcomes sunbathers, divers, drinkers and film fans. Its entry faces the...
Accessed from Ilije SarakeThe more well-known of the cliff-face bars; tourists follow the 'Cold Drinks' sign from the open square of Rudjera Boškovića. Prices are a little steeper...
Crijevićeva 9Beautifully situated, Defne occupies the roof terrace of the Old Town's five-star hotel, one of its three restaurants. The emphasis is on Mediterranean/Near...
Pucić Palace, Od Puča 1The village of Bosanka stands some 200 metres above Ploče on a hilly slope of Mount Srdj. Outside the village on the Ploče side stands this traditional...
BosankaBy the Pile Gate this landmark venue dating back to its namesake year of foundation is now a modernised, sunken room brightened by old photos of the trams...
BrsaljeA café-restaurant by day, by night this is a clubby beachside cocktail bar. The clientele is chic - it's hired for fashion parties - but the place is far...
Banje beach, Frana Supila
Near the upper entrance to the Hotel Kompas, the Eden is a comfortable place in which to enjoy seafood, steak and superior starter dishes, not least from...
Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 54Gil's restaurant and Gil's Pop Lounge have been taken over by new owners recently, and we're intrigued to see what they do with this high-end cocktail bar...
Sv Dominika
A modern makeover of this vintage coffeehouse has changed its decor (a terrace of neat red-and-blue chairs), its name and its drinks. Half-a-dozen cocktails...
Pod dvorom 1
In the fishing village of Zaton Mali 7km north-west of town, this old boathouse was converted into a restaurant by Niko Gverović in 1966. It is one of the...
Stikovića 43, Zaton Mail

Timeless, traditional and tremendously cheap, this locals' favourite has hardly changed despite the new tourist traps around it. A prime site by the market...
Gundulićeva poljana 8Beautifully situated in a small park outside Ploče Gate, down steps shaded by trees and palms, Komarda looks over the old port, the Old Town and Lokrum...
Ludmila Rogovskog 7Popular eaterie halfway along the main drag from Lapad beach, the Konavoka comprises two terraces, one at street level overlooking the passing holiday...
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 38