Gil's has recently changed hands, and the city's gourmets are agog to see how the new guard will change things. First major change is the name:...
Sv Dominika
In business since 1979, this is the city's most revered, and one of its cheapest, pizzerias. Set just off Stradun, it also serves pastas (lasagne,...
Nikole Božidarevića 10
First opened in 1932 by a certain Celestin "Cele" Šikić, this busy place is one of a gaggle of cafés grouped around the Stradun's bustling eastern end....
Stradun 1A free-standing house in a prime spot over the north wall of the Old Town, this friendly yellow-painted eaterie serves up a mess of Mexican food. For the...
Hvarska 6Beautifully situated, Defne occupies the roof terrace of the Old Town's five-star hotel, one of its three restaurants. The emphasis is on Mediterranean/Near...
Pucić Palace, Od Puča 1One of a handful of decent choices for that first coffee near the main square, Dubrava catches the morning sun and offers the most choice from its thick,...
StradunThe village of Bosanka stands some 200 metres above Ploče on a hilly slope of Mount Srdj. Outside the village on the Ploče side stands this traditional...
BosankaBy the Pile Gate this landmark venue dating back to its namesake year of foundation is now a modernised, sunken room brightened by old photos of the trams...
BrsaljeOpen all year round, this intimate, traditional konoba near the main square does nothing revolutionary but what it does do - lamb shashliks, grilled squids,...
Kovačka/StradunA café-restaurant by day, by night this is a clubby beachside cocktail bar. The clientele is chic - it's hired for fashion parties - but the place is far...
Banje beach, Frana Supila
Near the upper entrance to the Hotel Kompas, the Eden is a comfortable place in which to enjoy seafood, steak and superior starter dishes, not least from...
Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 54Set away from the tourist bustle in the heart of the Old Town, this traditional terrace konoba turns out standard domestic fare with a smile. It's handy for...
Ilije SarakeA modern makeover of this vintage coffeehouse has changed its decor (a terrace of neat red-and-blue chairs), its name and its drinks. Half-a-dozen cocktails...
Pod dvorom 1

Timeless, traditional and tremendously cheap, this locals' favourite has hardly changed despite the new tourist traps around it. A prime site by the market...
Gundulićeva poljana 8Beautifully situated in a small park outside Ploče Gate, down steps shaded by trees and palms, Komarda looks over the old port, the Old Town and Lokrum...
Ludmila Rogovskog 7