Housed in an impressive 1831 building that was originally an orphanage, the Dean Gallery offers an impressive range of modern art. The permanent collection features one of Britain's largest bodies of surrealist and Dadaist art, with pieces by the likes of Dalí, Miró and Picasso. Leith-born sculptor Sir Eduardo Paolozzi is allocated a room all to himself, with a mock-up of his studio and his soaring sculpture of Vulcan. Temporary shows range from the populist (Mario Testino) to the more cerebral (contemporary artists' interpretation of the Enlightenment). It's directly across the road from the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art; you can comfortably visit both in a day.