A meyhane maybe, but très genteel. This cosy local haunt feels like someone's front room - someone with money, taste and a fine old house. The ground floor space is small, with mustard walls, exposed brickwork, wooden floors and hanging lanterns.
But tables spill into the alley and there are two floors upstairs. Even so, reservations are a must, as the city's literati and gay crowd love this place. The food is a cut above - superior meze, followed by meat and fish dishes prepared with the freshest ingredients and a lightness of touch.