The original Hünkar opened in 1950 in the far-flung, working-class Fatih neighbourhood. This new offshoot in Nişantaşı has taken the old-school Ottoman brand upmarket.
Diners include Chanel-suited ladies who lunch and deal-clinching businessmen who schmooze over homely dishes like sheep's trotter soup, stuffed cabbage, anchovy pilaf, or the signature dish hünkar beĸendi - 'the sultan's delight' - a rich lamb stew with aubergine purée.
Decorative touches (jars of preserves, copper artefacts) maintain one foot in the past; street-side seating allows clients to keep an eye on the present.
Area Istanbul
Transport Metro Osmanbey.
Telephone 0212 225 4665
Open noon-midnight daily
Starters YTL7-YTL15. Main courses YTL12-YTL20
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