Located in the far-from-glamorous district of Kurtuluş, an area once home to a sizeable Greek community, Despina doesn't look promising at first. Its fluorescent lights and plastic flowers are a far cry from the snug meyhanes of Beyoĸlu.
But some fine musicians frequent the place, drawing an appreciative and demonstrative audience, who submit requests for their favourite oyun havaları (dance songs). On the right night, this can be the best party in town. The easiest way to find it is by taxi.