20 great things to do in Istanbul

1. Touch the heart of the Ottoman Empire

Part command centre for a massive military empire, part archetypal Eastern pleasure dome, the lavishly decorated Topkapı Palace was the seat of Ottoman power for over three centuries. At least half a day is needed to explore it; and given the high entrance fee you might want to take a full day to get your money’s worth. If you’re pushed for time, the must-see features are the Harem, Imperial Treasury and the views from the innermost courtyard.

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2. Explore Byzantine wonders

Though off the beaten track, it would be a big mistake to overlook the Church of St Saviour in Chora. Known for its Byzantine splendour, it houses celebrated mosaics and frescoes that are arguably the most important surviving examples of art from that era. Ironically, this Christian art owes its excellent condition to the church’s conversion to Islam in the early 16th century.

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3. Haggle for carpets at the Grand Bazaar

Serious shoppers should go armed with a notepad, a calculator and plenty of time when visiting the Grand Bazaar – three hours is about the minimum needed for a purchasing expedition. Choose your vendor from over 5,500 and prepare for an onslaught of courting and cajolements. Yörük is a highly recommended little carpet store while Pako (at No.87) stocks the city’s best handbags and purses. For coats and jackets, Kürkçüler Çarşisi is the area of choice. While beating down the price remember that the vendors pay their rent in gold – a hefty seven kilos a year for shops on the main avenue.

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4. Ferry around the Bosphorus

A truly relaxing way of getting across one of the world’s busiest waterways is to take one of the half-hourly commuter ferry services up the Bosphorus from Eminönü. Alight ashore at Beşiktaş, Ortaköy and Bebek along the way to take in the lush parks, palaces and yalıs (waterside mansions).

5. Hang out under the bridge

It may not sound like an ideal way to spend an hour of your precious sightseeing time, but  hanging out under the Galata Bridge is highly recommended. The bridge itself forms the vital link between the two sides of European Istanbul, while its lower deck – directly under the walkway – is home to restaurants, bars and tea-houses with ringside waterfront seating for boat watching and cheap beers.

6. Wonder at past glories

The third sacred building on the site to bear the name, the truly breathtaking Haghia Sophia was first a Byzantine church, then Ottoman mosque and now a Turkish museum. Today the mosaic walls and vaulted chambers merely hint at its former glory; the building is pretty shabby when compared with neighbouring mosques, but its historical relevance shines through.

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7. Go loco for lokum

Don’t avoid Egyptian Bazaar because of its pushy traders hustling their oily perfumes, cheap gold and sachets of ‘Turkish Viagra’ or you'll miss out on its finer treats. Instead, make a beeline for Erzincanlılar (shop No.2), one of the finest delis in the world, known for its delicious honeycomb and hard Turkish cheese. Move on to Pinar (No.14) for excellent lokum (Turkish delight) and Antep Pazarı (No.50) for pistachios, nuts, honey-covered mulberries and dried figs stuffed with walnuts.

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8. Walk the city walls

Constructed during the reign of Theodosius II (408-450), the walls of Constantinople are the largest Byzantine structure that survives in modern Istanbul. The walls encompass the old city in a great arc, stretching some 6.5 kilometers (four miles) from the Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara. A triumph of engineering, the walls comprise inner and outer ramparts with a terrace in between. Although criticised by scholars for having been rebuilt with modern materials in recent years, the restored sections are undeniably impressive.

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9. Get a bird's eye view

Originally named the Tower of Christ, the Galata Tower was built in 1348 at the apex of fortified walls. After the Ottoman conquest, it was used to house prisoners of war and later became an observatory. In the 1960s, the tower was restored and a horrible cheesy restaurant and nightclub were added. Ignore both and ascend to the 360-degree viewing gallery, with commanding views of the entire sprawling metropolis.

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10. Tuck into Ottoman cuisine

Authentic Turkish food is a far cry from the greasy kebabs that are peddled abroad; prepare your palate for a heady mix of culinary influences. Asitane is a one-of-a-kind restaurant serving truly authentic Ottoman food. Expect lots of sweet and sour fruit and meat combos: try Kavun dolmasi, a melon stuffed with minced meat, rice, almonds and pistachios. Over at Rumeli, traditional dishes have been given a distinctly Mediterranean twist. Also try these: Hacı Abdullah, Sarniç, and Zarifi.

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11. Go modern Turkish style

Housed in a former customs warehouse on the waterfront in Karaköy, the two-storey Istanbul Modern has a whopping 8,000 square metres of exhibition space. A shattered glass staircase hung from steel chains and an installation of books suspended over the library are two of the most popular exhibits amongst the cutting-edge, primarliy Turkish, art on display. The museum’s restaurant has proved a big hit in its own right with its stunning views across the Bosphorus to the minarets of Sultanahmet and out to the Marmara Sea.

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12. Be sultan for an hour or two

The Dolmabahçe Palace's white marble façade is striking when viewed from the water – but it’s trumped by the interior, the work of French decorator Sechan, who worked on the Paris Opera. Highlights include the 36-metre-high throne room with its four-tonne crystal chandelier (a gift from Queen Victoria), the alabaster baths and a 'crystal staircase' that wouldn't look out of place in Las Vegas. This historical building gives opulence a whole new meaning.

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13. Make music in the meyhane

The British down pints in pubs, the French guzzle wine in brasseries, and the Greeks smash plates in tavernas. The Turks? They make merry in the meyhane, the age-old Istanbul version of a tapas bar, a place to indulge in meze, drink raki and sway to some fasıl folk music. Many joints work on waiter’s recommendations instead of menus and the city’s most famous meyhane district is the Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage), an elegant 19th century arcade located just off Istiklal Caddesi. We recommend Boncuk, which specialises in Armenian dishes and features live fasil music.

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14. Take partying to new heights

The best way to see Istanbul is from above, as Istanbul’s nightlife impresarios have discovered – a revelation that has revolutionised dining and drinking in recent years. Rooftop bars and restaurants are springing up everywhere, desperately trying to outdo each other with the most sweeping skyline and exotic cocktail list. Beşinci Kat is a heady mix of art deco and kitsch while Leb-i-Derya Richmond is bright and airy with excellent food.

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15. Get bubbly with the hubbly

Call it hookah or ‘hubbly-bubbly’, Turks have been smoking the narghile since the early 17th century. While all the rage in 19th and early 20th century high society, narghile smoking was relegated to a pastime of the peasantry in republican Istanbul. It’s made a 21st century comeback and the pedestrian strip by the American Pazari is lined with narghile cafes. The Enjoyer Café is the most touristy while Erenler Çay Bahçesi is more student-friendly. Try one even if you’re not a smoker, and if feeling truly intrepid go the whole hog and opt for a traditional Turkish coffee. Boiled in a miniature copper beaker and served in porcelain cups, it packs the kick of a double espresso.

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16. Blow off some steam in a hamam

Paying a near-naked stranger to scrape, knead and pummel your flesh as you lie on a steamy slab of marble is one of Istanbul’s hedonistic highlights. Hamams were always intended to purify and are strongly linked to the Islamic tradition of ablutions – the strict set of rules for washing the hands, arms, face and feet with running water before praying. Stick to the tourist-savvy Çemberlitaş Hamamı, Cağaloğlu Hamamı and Galatasaray Hamamı, where although the menus are offered in Turkish it's always possible to explain yourself through frantic gesticulation.

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17. Take a spin with the Whirling Dervishes

Sufi music is one of Turkey's best-known cultural exports but the Whirling Dervishes sect is technically outlawed and therefore rarely seen in the city. At the Galata Mevlevihanesi, the dervishes perform twice a month exclusively for tourists and thrice a week they can be caught in a bustling waiting room at Sirkeci train station.

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18. Bling it up Bosphorus style

Turks have a highly evolved sense of nightlife and if you like your clubbing scene flashy, you’ll love the venues along the Bosphorus between Ortaköy and Kuruçeşme. Reina and Sortie are the superclubs of choice for the summer months, filled with, gaudy bling, swaggering playboys, C-list celebrities and anorexic gold-diggers. Anjelique is perhaps the most tasteful of the lot, while Blackk is the upmarket newcomer.

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19. Bop to Turkish pop

Those fond of pouting Turkish pop idol Tarkan, will be pleased to know that he has inspired a new generation of musicians who fuse Western pop with traditional folk. Music venues are multiplying to accommodate them, and if their record labels have anything to do with it, global recognition is just around the corner. To find out about gigs, wander into the cafés and bookstores around Istiklal Caddesi and peruse the flyers.

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20. Escape to the Princes’ Islands

Set in the Marmara Sea off Istanbul's Asian Shore, the Princes' Islands are where Istanbul’s mainly non-Muslim elite built their summerhouses and pleasure palaces. Today, they are one of the last places to offer a glimpse of the old ethnic mix of Istanbul in all its splendour: Greeks, Armenians and Jews still rub shoulders with Turks in the local squares, and churches are more numerous than mosques.

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