Festivals & events in Istanbul
Jazz jams, movie premieres and starry nights
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A theatre performance at the International Istanbul Biennial
Back in the golden days of the Ottoman Empire, extravagant celebrations were held on every possible occasion, with the sultan providing most of the excuses.
For the circumcision of three of Süleyman's sons in 1530, tents sewn with tulips were raised on gold-plated poles at the Hippodrome, where crowds were entertained by tightrope walkers on a cord stretched from the Egyptian Obelisk at its centre. The public was fed on roast oxen, from which fled live foxes as the feast was served. During the annual tulip festivals, small armies of tortoises were released to roam the imperial gardens with candles fixed to their shells.
20th century duds: Victory Day & Valentine's
When the republic was founded in 1923, it was just this sort of foppish excess that set the country's new rulers on their move to the austere Anatolian flatlands. Decrees from the new, party-pooping capital of Ankara put an end both to imperial traditions and to overt religious celebrations. In their place came a dour bunch of annual excuses for flag-waving, such as Republic Day (29 October) and Victory Day (30 August).
The late 20th century brought another depressing development: the infiltration of a slew of heavily marketed imports like Sevgililer Günü (Valentine's Day), Mothers' Day and even Christmas, which naturally tends to get confused with New Year's Day, given that more than 95 per cent of the population is Muslim.
21st century party spirit
Thankfully, in recent years, the full-blown festive spirit has returned. Nowadays, winter apart, every month sees a festival of some kind, with the city's youthful population giving these events a dynamism that more than makes up for any lack of experience. Many of these events are superbly managed and promoted by the Istanbul Foundation for Arts and Cultures (Istanbul Kültür ve Sanat Vakfı; www.iksv.org), which consistently attracts a roster of international big names. Now all they need to do is bring back the tortoises.
Information & tickets
For information about festivals and events, try the English-language Time Out Istanbul (www.timeoutistanbul.com/english). To buy tickets for various festivals, try the following outlets:
Atatürk Cultural Centre (AKM)
Taksim Square (0212 251 5600). Open 10am-noon, 1-7pm daily. No credit cards.
This ugly 1970s building looms over Taksim Square. Tickets for several major festivals are sold here. Students receive discounts.
Biletix
www.biletix.com/0216 556 9800. Open Call centre 8.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-9pm Sat, Sun. Credit DC, MC, V.
Tickets can be booked on the phone or the website (in English and Turkish), or at one of the many desks in selected outlets of Vakkorama, Ada, and supermarket Migros, and at music retailer Raksotek (Istiklal Caddesi 162, Beyoğlu). There's a booking charge of YTL3 per transaction if you buy online or on the phone (irrespective of the number of tickets purchased), while an extra YTL2 will buy delivery to your home address.
Critic's choice
International Istanbul Film Festival
Where: various venues
When: Apr
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700/www.iksv.org
An annual highlight, eagerly anticipated for the glamour factor of visiting movie stars. Be warned: this is the city's most popular cultural jamboree, and tickets sell out in advance.
International Istanbul Music Festival
Where: various venues
When: June-July
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700/334 0736/www.iksv.org
Inaugurated in 1973 on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the republic, the IMF is the most prestigious event on the city's cultural calendar. It comprises about 30 performances of orchestra and chamber music, dance and ballet. Big hitters at past festivals have included Kiri Te Kanawa, Philip Glass, the Michael Nyman Ensemble, Cecilia Bartoli and the Kronos Quartet. It's worth attending just to get a rare peek inside Haghia Irene church, normally closed to the public.
Rock 'n' Coke
Where: Hezarfen Airfield
When: July
Tel & website: 0212 334 0100/www.pozitif-ist.com/www.rockncoke.com
Since it began in 2003, Rock 'n' Coke has become Istanbul's biggest (late) summer opportunity to stand in a beer queue with 50,000 of your closest friends. Since then, 50 Cent has headlined, along with Iggy & the Stooges, while Muse and Placebo shared top billing back in 2006. DJs run the second stage. Echo and the Bunnymen, the Dead Kennedys, the Cure, and NYC's Gogol Bordello have also played at Turkey's largest open-air festival.
Spring
International Istanbul Film Festival
Where: various venues
When: Apr
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700/www.iksv.org
An annual highlight, eagerly anticipated for the glamour factor of visiting movie stars. Be warned: this is the city's most popular cultural jamboree, and tickets sell out in advance.
Orthodox Easter
Where: Patrikhane (Orthodox Patriarchate Building), Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi 35, Fener
When: Apr/May
Tel: 0212 531 9674
The city's last remaining Greek residents– as well as hundreds of pilgrims from Greece – flock to Easter Sunday mass in the venerable Patriarchate in Fener on the Golden Horn. In a church illuminated by hundreds of candles, the aura of ancient ritual is powerful enough to move even the most ardent of atheists.
International Istanbul Theatre Festival
Where: various venues
When: May/June (even years only)
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700/334 0777/www.iksv.org
One of the few opportunities to see international theatre in Istanbul. In the past, big draws have included the likes of Robert Wilson, Pina Bausch, the Berliner Ensemble, the Piccolo Teatro di Milano and Britain's Royal Shakespeare Company. The programme also features a selection of the year's best Turkish plays. Most performances are held at city theatres including the Atatürk Cultural Centre, the Kenter Theatre and the Aksanat Cultural Centre. A few events take place at more unusual venues, such as the Rumeli Hisarı fortress on the Bosphorus.
International Istanbul Puppet Festival
Where: Akkarga Sokak 22, Elmadağ
When: 2nd week of May
Tel: 0212 232 0224
Puppet, marionette and shadow theatre was big in Ottoman times, but is rarely performed today. This festival is an opportunity to witness this almost forgotten art, with around a dozen shows by Turkish and international companies at the Kenter Theatre and various other venues. Most plays are silent and suitable for children and adults.
Conquest Week Celebrations
Where: various venues
When: late May
Tel & website: 0212 449 4000/www.ibb.gov.tr
A lively celebration of the Turkish conquest of Constantinople (29 May, 1453), featuring exhibitions of traditional Turkish arts and parades by the 'Ottoman' Mehter band, plus concerts, conferences, lectures, screenings, fireworks and some rabble-rousing by the nationalist and Islamist parties.
Summer
International Istanbul Music Festival
Where: various venues
When: June-July
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700/334 0736/www.iksv.org
Inaugurated in 1973 on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the republic, the IMF is the most prestigious event on the city's cultural calendar. It comprises about 30 performances of orchestra and chamber music, dance and ballet. Big hitters at past festivals have included Kiri Te Kanawa, Philip Glass, the Michael Nyman Ensemble, Cecilia Bartoli and the Kronos Quartet. It's worth attending just to get a rare peek inside Haghia Irene church, normally closed to the public.
International Istanbul Jazz Festival
Where: various venues
When: July
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700/334 0708/www.iksv.org
This two-week festival pushes the boundaries of what defines modern jazz. Keith Jarrett, Wynton Marsalis and Dizzy Gillespie have all performed in the 4,000-seat Harbiye open-air theatre, as have less likely musicians like Björk, Nick Cave, Lou Reed and Patti Smith. Consistently the best programme of any Turkish music festival.
Traditional Istanbul Açıkhava (Open-Air) Concerts
Where: Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu, Açıkhava Tiyatrosu
When: mid July/early Aug
Tel & website: 0212 257 6200/www.mostproduction.com; tickets 0212 232 1652
Launched in the mid 1980s, this season of open-air concerts in Harbiye is worth checking out. The line-up mixes mainstream names from Turkish pop, rock and folk with a variety of alternative genres. It's a good opportunity to see the more innovative end of the local music scene. Past performers include the Mercan Dede Fusion Project, with its blend of Turkish folk, trance and whirling Dervishes, alongside Balkan stars such as Goran Bregovic.
Electronica Festival Istanbul
Where: Burc Beach
When: mid July-late Aug
Tel & website: 0212 283 5050/www.futuregeneration.net
Since 2004, the EFI has been bringing a heavyweight roster of DJs to Burç Beach on the Black Sea, over 10,000 fans follow. Stars of recent years have included three of the best DJs in the world, Sasha and John Digweed and Armin Van Buuren.
Rock 'n' Coke
Where: Hezarfen Airfield
When: July
Tel & website: 0212 334 0100/www.pozitif-ist.com/www.rockncoke.com
Since it began in 2003, Rock 'n' Coke has become Istanbul's biggest (late) summer opportunity to stand in a beer queue with 50,000 of your closest friends. Since then, 50 Cent has headlined, along with Iggy & the Stooges, while Muse and Placebo shared top billing back in 2006. DJs run the second stage. Echo and the Bunnymen, the Dead Kennedys, the Cure, and NYC's Gogol Bordello have also played at Turkey's largest open-air festival.
Autumn
International Istanbul Biennial
Where: various venues
When: Sept-Nov (odd yrs only)
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700, 334 0763/www.iksv.org
Alternating with the Istanbul Theatre Festival, every other year more than 50 artists from around 50 countries exhibit works on a theme set by a guest curator. Expect to find paintings, installations, screenings, walkabouts, films, panel discussions, lectures and daily guided tours (in English).
Akbank Jazz Festival
Where: various venues
When: Oct
Tel & website: 0212 334 0100/www.pozitif-ist.com
Unlike July's international jamboree, this festival is less about big names and more about jazz. Some ten bands perform every day over a two-week period, with jam sessions at venues including Babylon and Nardis. Max Roach, the Art Ensemble of Chicago, Archie Shepp and Cecil Taylor have all participated in recent years. In addition to great music, there are film screenings and workshops.
Phonem/Electronic Music Plateau
Where: various venues
When: late Oct-early Nov
Tel & website: 0212 334 0700/www.iksv.org
An international platform for exploring electronic music, with discussions, technology exhibitions and performances. Expect a string of parties featuring local and international DJs, plus concerts, video art, film and video screenings, and workshops.
Istanbul Arts Fair
Where: Tüyap Centre, E5 Hwy (Karayolu), Gürpınar Jcn, Kavşağı, Beylikdüzü
When: Oct/Nov
Tel & website: 0212 886 6843/www.tuyap.com.tr
Recently relocated from its city centre home to the less accessible Tüyap Centre near the airport, this vast, week-long sales fair has retained its massive appeal. Some 50 Istanbul galleries plus a handful of international art dealers come to offload paintings, sculpture and ceramics on an increasingly receptive local market. Don't let the remote location put you off: free shuttle services depart from AKM on Taksim Square, Atatürk airport, the Bakırköy ferry stop and the Esenler bus terminal.
International 1001 Documentary Film Festival (Uluslararası 1001 Belgesel Film Festivali)
Where: various venues
When: Nov
Tel & website: 0212 249 2317/www.bsb.org.tr
Refreshingly, this one-week festival run by the Association of Documentary Film Makers (BSB) does not focus on any particular issue. As well as unusual factual films, there are panel discussions, master classes and Q&A sessions. Screenings are mostly in Beyoğlu. Admission is free.
Anniversary of Atatürk's Death
Where: all over Istanbul
When: 10 Nov
Every 10 November at 9.05am, the death of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk is commemorated with a minute's silence. Sirens howl mournfully and the Bosphorus ferries sound their foghorns, while buses, cars, and people everywhere come to a sudden standstill. The experience is both moving and eerie – a testament to the great leader's lasting grip on the Turkish public's imagination.
Istanbul Book Fair
Where: Tüyap Centre, E5 Hwy (Karayolu), Gürpınar Jcn, Kavşağı, Beylikdüzü
When: Nov
Tel & website: 0212 886 6843/www.tuyap.com.tr
Over 200 of Turkey's publishing houses, as well as several publishers from abroad, gather for ten days in the city to trade their wares. Leading writers, academics and intellectuals participate in non-stop conferences and round-table discussions. Attendees get discounts on new publications. Free shuttle services run from AKM on Taksim Square, Atatürk airport, the Bakırköy ferry stop and Esenler bus terminal.
Winter
Istanbul International Short Film Festival (Uluslararası Istanbul Kısa Film Festivali)
Where: various venues
When: Nov
Tel & website: 0212 252 5700/www.istanbulfilmfestival.com
A long-running event masterminded by short film aficionado Hilmi Etikan, this week-long festival is based at various cultural centres in Beyoğlu and the Istanbul Modern. The programme includes short fiction, experimental fare and animation from all over the world. All films have English subtitles and all screenings are free.
Efes Pilsen Blues Festival
Where: Lütfü Kırdar Convention Centre, Harbiye
When: Nov/Dec
Tel & website: 0212 334 0100/www.pozitif-ist.com
This hugely popular festival, running since 1990, is a showcase for new talent, with three bands performing every night. This doesn't stop the occasional star (such as Bobby Rush or Long John Hunter) from showing up.
International Meeting of Cinema and History Film Festival (Uluslararası Sinema ve Tarih Buluşması Film Festivali)
Where: various venues
When: mid Dec
Tel & website: 0212 244 5251/www.tursak.org.tr
One of a string of festivals run by TÜRSAK (the foundation for cinema and audiovisual culture), this is a showcase for over 50 features and documentaries from around the world with a political or human rights dimension. Most screenings are held around Beyoğlu and at the TÜRSAK cinema in Levent. Admission fees are nominal.
IF AFM Independent Film Festival (IF AFM Bağımsız Filmler Festivali)
Where: AFM Fitaş
When: Feb
Tel & website: 0212 251 2020/www.ifistanbul.com
Launched in 2002, this slick, hugely popular event is run by the cinema chain AFM. The programming is distinctly right-on, with strands dedicated to digital, political, and gay/lesbian cinema, plus hardcore sex and violence. Try to book tickets in advance, either online or at the AFM Fitaş cinema, where all screenings are held.
Public holidays
Turkey's five secular public holidays last one day each. Banks, offices and post offices are closed, but many shops stay open and public transport runs as usual. Religious holidays are different. They last three or four days; if these happen to be midweek, the government often extends the holiday to cover the whole working week. The city shuts down as Istanbullus flock to the country. Coaches and flights are jammed, so book ahead if your travel plans coincide.
Ramazan
Observance of Ramazan, the Islamic month of fasting, is widespread. Many Turks abstain from food, drink and cigarettes between sunrise and sunset. This has little impact on visitors, as most bars and restaurants remain open, but it's bad form to flaunt your non-participation by smoking or eating in the street, especially in religious districts, such as Fatih and Üsküdar. Here, Ramazan nights are the busiest of the year.
At sundown, eateries are packed with large groups breaking their fast together with iftar ('breakfast'). Sultanahmet Square turns into an extravaganza of food and music at twilight – a revival of an old Ottoman tradition. The end of Ramazan is marked by the three-day şeker Bayramı, or 'Sugar Holiday', when sweets are traditionally given to friends and family.
Feast of the Sacrifice
The main event in the Islamic calendar is Kurban Bayramı (the Feast of the Sacrifice), which marks Abraham's near-sacrifice of Isaac. While Isaac escaped the knife, the local livestock aren't so lucky. Traditionally, families buy a kurban, which could be a sheep, bull, goat or camel, which they sacrifice on the first or second day of the feast. The meat is shared with relatives, neighbours and the poor. There are now stricter regulations on slaughtering sites and methods, which has reduced the bloodbath effect, but the faint-hearted are advised to keep away from mosques around this time.
Islamic religious holidays are based on a lunar calendar, approximately 11 days shorter than the Gregorian (Western) calendar. Consequently, Islamic holidays shift forward by ten or 12 days each year.
New Year's Day (Yılbaşı Günü) 1 Jan
The Feast of the Sacrifice (Kurban Bayramı) 27-30 Nov 2009; 16-19 Nov 2010
National Sovereignty & Children's Day (Ulusal Egemenlik ve Çocuk Bayramı) 23 Apr
Youth & Sports Day (Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı) 19 May
Victory Day (Zafer Bayramı) 30 Aug
Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı) 29 Oct
Ramazan Holiday (Ramazan Bayramı) 20-22 Sep 2009; 9-11 Sep 2010
Our listings
While every effort and care has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this guide, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. Before you go out of your way, we strongly advise you to phone ahead and check the particulars.
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