Named after a racy Byzantine regent, the Zoe is one of the best and quirkiest of the city's small hotels. Its sunken reception area incorporates parts of a 15th-century hamam; the 'archaeological garden' - ideal for breakfast or a beer.
Bear in mind that guests must be agile, as rooms are reached via a wrought-iron spiral staircase. In contrast to the gilt and frills of most other 'period' hotels, the Zoe's 19 small rooms are decorated in dark wood and richly coloured textiles.
A new wing of suites has recently been added and the garden expanded. Add a fine rooftop bar for a nightcap with a view and this place is sheer class from top to bottom.