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[title]Origin
As Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia wrestle to claim the origins of otak-otak, Chef Eric Siew of Makan Kitchen seems quite adamant. ‘It’s from Peranakan influences,’ he says, coolly. ‘It’s neither Chinese nor Malay but it’s definitely Malaysian.’ As the debate of origin extends also to such local favourites as chilli crab and bak kut teh, we cannot exclusively claim the dish as it has been popular for far too long elsewhere in the region, particularly in Indonesia. Made up of spiced fish paste, otak-otak is common in fishing villages along Malaysia’s coast but interpretations vary by area. The authentic Nyonya-style variety is flat, typically made from fish mousse and wrapped in banana leaf before it’s steamed or grilled. In Muar, the mousse is wrapped in daun nipah and grilled over charcoal.
Preparation
Otak-otak’s diminutive portions are unrepresentative of the work that goes into each little pocket. A precisely proportioned amount of fennel and coriander seeds are toasted, ground and blended into a wet paste with blue ginger, chilli, garlic, onions, turmeric, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass. Whole local mackerel is then deboned and hand-chopped (for chunkiness), packed with the spice paste, and laid on bamboo. Chef Eric finds that bamboo makes for a sturdier ‘case’ than banana leaf; bamboo also prevents the fish from shrinking while retaining its moisture. Luxury is introduced in the form of Alaskan king crab, gently pushed onto the surface of the mousse before the bamboo is sealed and steam-baked in the oven.
Taste
Otak-otak often bears the unfortunate reputation of being soft, mushy and grey – much like brain. Chef Eric and his team manage to sophisticate the bazaar favourite by cooking the fish to an enviable airy-but-firm texture – packed yet yielding. The fishiness associated with otak-otak is distinctly absent, with the Thai-Indochinese flavours of the spice blend offsetting the punch of the mackerel. Meanwhile, the bamboo imbues a gentle herby scent that’s not usually present with banana leaf. Amidst all this tangerine-hued grace, the king crab emits a syrupy sweetness and soaks through the fish for a delicate balance. It’s otak-otak without the severity – elegant and uncharacteristically dainty.
Eat it at
Makan Kitchen, DoubleTree by Hilton Kuala Lumpur (03 2172 7272/www.makankitchen.com). The Alaskan king crab otak-otak is one of the six signature dishes available at the restaurant’s ‘A Taste of Malaysia’ buffet. Daily, 6.30pm–10.30pm. RM108++ per person.