February 2013
A native Korean might argue that the best barbecue meal should be had in a roadside meat market where the ingredients are directly sourced and the casual dining atmosphere permits raucous rendezvous. But it seems that even fine dining restaurants are starting to cotton on to the preference for a more relaxed dining environment. Onsemiro does away with the tablecloths and gilded chandeliers, leaving behind an open grill kitchen and a bar fuelled with wines and soju (Korean rice liquor). The refined ambience, though a little less uptight than what an upscale restaurant commonly is, matches the sparkle of the gogigui (Korean barbecue) here.
Korean food is like the gutsier version of Japanese fare. Sauces like gochujang (hot pepper sauce) are used for marination while side dishes feature a hefty inclusion of garlic, onion and ginger. Onsemiro tends to go au naturel with its meat so you can sample its real, beefy succulence. Unlike other sinewy beef briskets that require you to chew for hours, my chadolbagi, dripping oil onto the hissing charcoals, was well marbled and tender. I like to make it into a ssam (wrap) – enfold your meat in a lettuce, spread a thin layer of bean paste and pop in a garlic for that jolt of heat. Waiters here rob you of the thrill of cooking your own meat (they insist on serving you) but at least they make sure your banchan (side dishes) never go empty. There was barely any visible table space, thanks to their refillable jelly fish salad, spicy cockles, cold kale and national pride, kimchi.
The downfall of a Korean eatery is usually attributed to the pajeon (savoury pancakes) – thick batter with overcooked filling is common. But my seafood version – studded with tasty slivered octopus and shrimps – arrived crispy-thin and had the unexpected sharp bite of scallions. When the complimentary desserts rolled around, a semi-frozen persimmon was served. The chef had chosen a slightly riper fruit so that its gel-like texture resembles a sorbet when you prick it apart with a fork. There were peanut cakes and sweet rice tea too but the refreshing persimmon was clever and so simple it can be recreated at home.
The barbecue menu also boasts butterflied beef ribs, sirloins, tongue as well as lamb and chicken chops – all are mostly served plain for dressing afterwards. You might also be swayed by the extensive offerings of stews, soups, delicate japchae noodles, and fiery hotpots that clear the sinuses. Despite being a fine dining restaurant, Onsemiro doesn’t deploy any gimmicks, letting its dishes do the talking. Indeed, food here is nothing groundbreaking but the quality it evinces certainly deserves more attention. At least for a restaurant that conforms to traditional Korean fare, they’re doing it very convincingly. Kong Wai Yeng