A favourite haunt of policemen, politicians and the people they serve, Restoran ZK has been at Kampung Attap since 1992. Its popularity is such that most simply refer to it as Kampung Attap Fish Head Curry. Eschew the corner shoplot (under the same management) and grab a table in the zinc-roofed shack next door instead. Here under the trees customers may choose from various dishes already laid out, but everyone’s attention is on the burly Indian cook manning the largest pot and the famous fish head curry in it (RM30–RM40).
Every day only 20 to 30 heads of ikan merah (red snapper) are cooked in a Kerala-style curry with okra, taufu pok and eggplant, which means latecomers may have to go without. The curry is redolent of Indian spices – turmeric, star anise, cumin – while the meat retains a firm bite. Don’t forget the smooth and gelatinous fish cheeks. Standard side dishes include a local salad of boiled bean sprouts and cabbage, as well as a not-to-be-missed fresh acar of sliced onions and green chillies marinated in dark soya sauce.