This operation comes with a flamboyance that's two parts Italian, one part Las Vegan and three parts pure showbiz. There's a full menu here, Italian staples sold at prices several dollars too high. But the entertainment is the key: lounge acts with patter as old as the city itself. The fact that the owner is the Lieutenant Governor of Nevada, a lounge artist in her own right who'll happily do a turn when prompted, makes perfect sense. A 24-hour classic.