Furanxo

You almost expect fag smoke in the air and detritus on the floor of this otherwise authentic bodega in Dalston. Furanxo is primarily a wine and charcuterie shop, selling imported tins of sardines, octopus, artichokes and other colourful Spanish produce, along with speciality cheese and meats. But at the weekends, opening hours extend so hispanophiles can file in for a glass of something interesting – natural wine from niche Spanish regions. It’s already caught the attention of expats, the small room noisy with passionate Spanglish chatter, nationalities mingling over a shared love of the Andalusian bars/grocery stores (known as abacerías) which Furanxo is inspired by.

An Aussie barhand talked us through the four by-the-glass wines chalked up on the wall, hamming up names and regions in a lilting accent. Glasses start at £6, and it’s tempting to work through the full fleet, though there’s more by the bottle. We sampled an effervescent and appley white from Barcelona, and a red that was rose in colour and complex in flavour. Food-wise, a cheese plate at £10 and a charcuterie board at £12 were excellent value, and without a working kitchen in this tiny space, cold plates are your lot. But the size is what makes Furanxo so authentic. Squeezing in and asserting yourself is all part of the fun.