Lucky Chip at the Player bar (aka Slider bar)
Lucky Chip (aka Slider bar)
Rob Greig / Time Out
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Wed Sep 19 2012
Burger pop-ups are like viagra for failing sites, especially for detumescent bars. This year they’ve been supersizing themselves everywhere, as if Morgan Spurlock had never happened. Burgers are being stuffed into our gobs in every conceivable form – Honest, Dirty, even with Lobster.
This eyebrow-raising food trend is the result of affordable pricing, the resurgence of comfort food, even a nostalgia for a past that was never really there. It’s a high- cholesterol splurge in the face of recession.
This particular Lucky Chip ‘residency’ at The Player bar in Soho is one of the most successful collaborations we’ve seen. The Lucky Chip caterers seem to have found their spiritual home amid the Americana, stuffed moose head and den-style decor of this low-lit basement below Agent Provocateur. The menu is a clever homage to fast food joints,yet is far more grown-up than drive-thrus or takeaway joints.
For £12.50 you get a choice of two ‘sliders’ – small burgers – plus chips. We were impressed by the detail of the brioche and sesame buns, the high quality of the juicy, fatty beef burgers within, and flavourful if slightly flaccid fries. Even a wildcard choice – the ‘Fillet-O-Fish’ – was realistically square yet fishy, though the low-rent American cheese was perhaps a touch too golden arches for some tastes. The pulled pork slider was exemplary, the ‘Royale wit Cheese’ (sic) a ‘Pulp Fiction’ reference that was no quarter-pounder, but a hell of a good burger anyway.
You can also build your own sundae, or snack on appetisers such as the brilliant ‘chicken bucket’ (£11, serves two), in between sipping Player cocktails or bottled craft beers.
Yet the Slider Bar doesn’t quite merit a lapel full of golden stars. Service, though smiling, was incredibly slow on our visit, and the shrieking groups around us didn’t make a relaxing dining experience. You can’t book a table unless you are a party of six or more.Yet the Slider Bar couldn’t have been any busier if they’d been giving away free drinks.
Lunchtime opening is in the pipeline, we're told.
Lucky Chip at the Player bar (aka Slider bar) 8 Broadwick St
020 7065 6800
- Opening hours:
Open 5.30pm- 1am Tues-Thur, 5.30pm-2am Fri, 7pm-2am Sat.
Tube: Leicester Square tube
- Player Bar
8 Broadwick St
- 020 7065 6800
- Player Bar
- Player Bar
Food and drink