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Birra artigianale means ‘craft beer’ in Italian.Twenty years ago there were zero birrifici making the stuff; today Italy has more than 400. These brews now have a showcase in Chiswick, the first of its type.
We drank two brews from the evolving list of 12: the unfiltered Viæmilia pilsner from Birrificio del Ducato, and an IPA from Birrificio Toccalmatto called Re Hop. Both were memorable, but the lager left the more lasting impression with its startlingly intense citrus flavours.
Some brews rise to alarming levels of potency, which makes the policy of selling in halves or two-thirds of a pint look sensible. Italians rarely drink without having something to eat, and that practice prevails here – most customers order croquettes or charcuterie plates. In good weather, crowds spill out around the pavement tables.
The Italian Job is worth travelling to, though I’d leave my Mini Cooper at home. And if I went by coach, I’d make sure the driver laid off the Verdi Imperial Stout at 8.2 percent abv. Who wants a quiet pint to end on a cliffhanger?