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Canary Wharf is weird. It doesn’t really feel as though you’re in London; plonk it in any big city in the world and it would fit in. Consequently, it’s something of a hotbed for soulless bars. The Pagination is not one of them.
Sleek and smart, it resembles the lobby of a luxury ski lodge. There are knitted blankets and sheepskins strewn over retro chairs and a ’70s vibe throughout, with warm wood and cut-glass jugs. On each table sits a mini shrub-filled concrete planter, and they haven’t scrimped on the tea lights, which means that it feels cosy despite its size.
But you don’t go to a bar merely for the ambience – what about the drinks? The cocktails – I tried an old fashioned and something pear-y from the ‘Heritage’ menu – were bang average. Wine was better: the house red was perfectly all right, and bonus points for serving Chapel Down by the glass.
What was disappointing – besides the staff’s bowties – was the fact that the lights came up at 10pm. Fifteen minutes later, the music stopped. It seemed an unsubtle hint to get the hell out, and early even for a Wednesday, but maybe that’s just how they roll on the Wharf.