Victualler (CLOSED)

Please note, Victualler is now closed. Time Out Editors.

A narrow residential street in Wapping is perhaps not the most obvious location for the brave new venture that is Daniil Vashchilov’s natural, organic and biodynamic wine bar and shop. Then again, locals clearly appreciate quirky quality and are prepared to pay for the privilege. There’s a good deal that is quirky about this reclaimed pub, aside from the motley assortment of wooden tables, chairs and sink-in sofas. One such element is the determined focus on British and even local-to-London produce; another is the purist approach to wine (and beer). But perhaps the least usual and most welcome aspect is the friendly, enthusiastic and hugely informative engagement with customers: order just a glass of something unfamiliar and you’ll be given a taster; express enthusiasm and a number of corks will be popped and the pedigree of each wine laid bare. The food too – simple platters of cheese and charcuterie in prime condition, with carefully selected accompaniments – is provenance-identified with pride. On our visit, beef strips, cured in-house and still pink and tender, proved a cleverly conceived partner to richly fruity Morgon and a contrasting Gamay de Chaudenay, its choucroute notes indicative of ‘natural’ wine making. The list changes constantly, so there’s plenty to keep local palates refreshed, and much that would reward a speculative excursion.