Folly

A vast, yawning venue, spread over two floors and multiple levels with a look that’s part industrial and part Country Living, this chameleon tries to be a lot of things.

It’s a deli and restaurant (and florist) during the day and, later, a brash, buzzy cocktail and champagne bar. Upstairs, an open kitchen opposite an array of long picnic tables serves sharing platters, gourmet sandwiches, seafood and pub staples made posh.

Drinkers head down to couches and tables for two lit by birdcage lanterns, or the private vaults. Bartenders will create cocktails to your design using fresh ingredients, or you can choose from twists on standard classics, such as an apple and honey margarita, or ‘skinnies’.

The wine list isn’t overly extortionate (house wine is under £14), but a lot of bubbly – mainly prosecco and Pommery – gets poured.