The French sommelier is enthusiastic, and the excellent selection of mostly ‘natural’ wines, supplied by small producers, offers plenty of interest by the glass. The location, right in the heart of west Soho, is another plus.
The term ‘vin naturel’ was revived in France in the 1980s to describe wines that use ‘natural’ fermentation with little intervention in the winemaking process – often with unpredictable results. Critics have described so-called ‘natural wines’ as tasting sour, farmyardy, like stale cider, or just faulty; and that there is no certification. But there are also enthusiasts who like their distinctively different character. Organic wines are different – they use no pesticides or artificial fertilisers. Biodynamic wines are different again - they are usually (though not always) organic, but incorporate mystical beliefs together with the ecological practices; many growers really do plant cow horns, stags’ bladders, and more besides.
Whatever your opinion on the rationale, there is a consensus that many biodynamic wines are of good quality, well–made, and often characterful. If you're in the market for a glass of plonk with a twist, here are the best natural wine bars in London.