Bars & Pubs

St James’s jaunt
Distance one-and-a-half miles
Pub count four

Start at St James’s Park underground station – this will enable you to set the right tone by strolling across the park to work up a nice thirst. Exit on to Broadway and take the street opposite, running away from the station, past the Old Star public house, and then use the pedestrian crossing to cross Birdcage Walk. Feature continues

This route takes you on a traverse from south to north, crossing the bridge which provides attractive views of the London Eye to the right, and Buckingham Palace to the left through the trees. Cross The Mall, then take the street opposite, Marlborough Road, past St James’s Palace. Across the street is Queen’s Chapel, one of Inigo Jones’s classical churches. This is a lot of culture so you’ll need a drink. At the end of Marlborough Road as you emerge on to Pall Mall, look for an archway opposite in Quebec House. This is Crown Passage and home to an atmospheric little alleyway of shops and a pleasant pub, the Red Lion (1). The front of the pub suggests a venerable age, perhaps the eighteenth century. The panelled interior is probably a legacy of the 1930s. It’s a civilised place away from the tourist trail. Adnams’ beers and Draught Bass are available.

Upon leaving the Red Lion and continuing up Crown Passage, you emerge on to King Street, home of Christie’s, the famous auctioneers, across the road. A few doors down to the right there is the second of three lions, this time the Golden Lion (2). Built by the prolific pub architects, Eedle & Meyers, in 1897-9, it sports a very attractive façade with bow windows. Young’s, London Pride and Greene King IPA add to the appeal.

Stroll down to King Street to St James’s Square at the far end, which is one of London’s many formal squares, and boasts a history as a very fashionable address. Number ten was home to no fewer than three former prime ministers. Take the road north from the square and you arrive a couple of minutes later at another Red Lion (3), one of London’s, and indeed Britain’s, most splendid surviving Victorian pubs. Although the building was constructed in 1821, both the pub’s frontage and its interior date to the 1870s. This is a veritable Victorian cathedral of glass, mirrors and woodwork. Go as early as you can to enjoy the place as it can get crowded at lunchtimes and early evenings, but quietens down later on. Look out for London Pride and Timothy Taylor Landlord.

Leave the pub and turn on to Jermyn Street by St James’s Church. This street has long been an epicentre of gentlemen’s fashion, with shirts a speciality. As you walk along past elegant shop fronts, note the rear of Fortnum & Mason’s to the right, and crossing St James’s Street pass the heavily modernised Blue Posts pub. Turn right here and emerge on Piccadilly by The Ritz hotel.

Walk along the front of The Ritz and cross the road into Berkeley Street opposite. A series of handsome Georgian houses line the west side of Berkeley Square, in contrast to the brash temples of capitalism on the east. Leave the square at the north-east corner onto Bruton Place. Down here, amid the affluence of Mayfair, is a remarkable survivor down on the left, the Guinea (4). Surprisingly, given the surroundings, the old pub has been little adulterated and its interior feels like the mews alehouse it once was. Furnishings are agreeably simple and the floor is uncarpeted; beers are from Young’s. From here, the nearest underground station is Green Park.