Indian | Oriental | Italian | Cheap eats | British | Vegetarian | Gastropubs | Best service | Best to impress | Best for grazing
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| Terroirs |
Maze
Jason Atherton never ceases to tempt and tease with his playful
and inventive dishes at his flagship restaurant. The traditional à la
carte is good, but it’s the ‘tasting’ dishes that really allows his
skill and creativity to shine. Asian, Spanish and French influences are
apparent in his British produce-led creations, done to an impeccably
high standard via cutting-edge techniques. The dish we all salivated
over on last summer’s Great British Menu, the deconstructed BLT with
croque monsieur, delivers on every level. Other cheeky dishes include
‘beef tongue ’n’ cheek’. Maze Grill, next door, is a simple steak house
in comparison.
When to go On a very special occasion, as you’ll have to book far in advance.
What to have A flurry of miniature ‘tasting’ dishes is the way to go.
Maze, 10-13 Grosvenor Sq, W1K 6JP (7107 0000/www.gordonramsay.com). Bond St tube.
The Providores & Tapa Room
While
the upstairs Providores (the formal dining room) is an indulgent treat,
we favour the buzzing ground floor Tapa Room for its innovative
breakfasts and all-day menu of small dishes and tapas. The kitchen’s
tendency to combine more ingredients in one plate than there should be
in an entire multi-course meal can be challenging, but the end result
is often astounding. Tataki of tuna on pickled green papaya and coconut
salad with a nori (dried seaweed) purée, green peppercorn dressing and
crisp buckwheat is typical of the globe-trotting concoctions this kiwi
kitchen comes up with.
When to go If you want to be wowed by unusual flavour combinations.
What to have Breakfast is a good bet, or sample the creative tapas.
The Providores & Tapa Room, 109 Marylebone High St, W1U 4RX (7935 6175/www.theprovidores.co.uk). Baker St or Bond St tube.
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Dehesa
From
the people who created the excellent Salt Yard comes Dehesa, a
Spanish-Italian tapas restaurant. The appeal is strong, in well-sourced
charcuterie (available both on the bone and off), Spanish and Italian
cheeses, and creative and elegant tapas dishes. The salt cod croquetas
are among the best in the capital, hot and crisp with firm, meaty fish
and creamy innards. The wine list is an eclectic one, offering
interesting selections from lesser-known regions of Italy and Spain,
and the eight sherries include a rare and gorgeously nutty palo
cortado. At first Dehesa staff didn’t take bookings, meaning long waits
– but thankfully they’ve changed their minds.
When to go A quick lunch when shopping near Carnaby Street.
What to have Tapas until you drop.
Dehesa, 25 Ganton St, W1F 9BP (7494 4170). Oxford Circus tube.
Moro
Sam(uel)
and Sam(antha) Clark’s restaurant has been one of London’s must-visit
restaurants for more than a decade now. Its long-standing appeal could
be attributed to a number of factors. One is the ever-changing, always
challenging menu that isn’t afraid to incorporate flavours from all
around the Mediterranean – of late, (Mr) Sam has been edging towards
Turkey and Syria in the influences, away from the ‘Moorish’ food that
first made their name. The convivial atmosphere is also a draw. The
Spanish wine and sherry list is, for many, one of the key factors. Ten years on, it remains an exciting place to eat, drink and be very
merry indeed.
When to go On a hip and happening weekend (book in advance, naturally).
What to have
You’ll do well with most dishes, especially if they incorporate any of
the following: harissa, ‘garum’ (ancient Roman fermented fish sauce),
smoked tamarind.
Moro, 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE (7833 8336/www.moro.co.uk). Farringdon tube/rail.
Barrafina
Despite
the opening of many rival Spanish joints, for tapas we will always
think firstly and fondly of Barrafina. Modelled after the epitome of
excellent tapas dining, the Cal Pep bar in Barcelona, the 23-seater (no
bookings taken) has been kitchen-consistent for as long as we can
remember, much like its sister venue Fino. You can’t go wrong by
starting with some pimientos de padrón or golden, crisp ham croquetas –
cashmere soft on the inside – with a chilled glass of sherry (a
caramelly amontillado, perhaps, or a zingy manzanilla). Likewise, the
seafood specials – fresh fish and crustacea on ice are in plain view
behind the bar – are always a good bet if you feel like splurging
(razor clams a la plancha are a firm favourite).
When to go Now open Sundays, it’s a good time to avoid the queues.
What to have A glass of sherry or two, some jamón, a perfectly-formed tortilla or the day’s specials.
Barrafina, 54 Frith St, W1D 4SL (7813 8016/www.barrafina.co.uk). Tottenham Court Rd tube.
Terroirs
This
new wine bar makes a big selling point of its ‘natural’ wines (most of
them organic or biodynamic), but for us, the food is just as big an
attraction. The small tasting plates, which you can eat at the bar
counter, are even more tempting than the main courses. Piping hot soft
polenta is topped with wild mushrooms; a dish of giant macaroni is
topped with pumpkin and chestnut, grilled. The dishes tend to be
pan-European, such as smoked duck with green beans and walnuts. For a
more substantial meal, the plats du jour (pork belly and beans, cold
with catalan salad) hit the spot. The service has been cheery and
efficient on our visits.
When to go When looking for a nibble near Charing Cross.
What to have The small tasting plates are a must.
Terroirs, 5 William IV St, WC2N 4DW (7036 0660/www.terroirswinebar.com). Charing Cross tube/rail.
Lola Rojo
This
isn’t your average tapas bar, with a strong Catalan influence on the
remarkably contemporary creations. Prime examples include grilled
asparagus with romesco sauce, pan con tomate or Majorcan rice with
prawns and vegetables. Touches of nueva cucina are apparent especially
in the immaculate presentation of dishes, echoed in the clean,
modernist decor.
When to go On a warm, sunny weekend.
What to have Any of the tapas that sound unusual.
Lola Rojo, 78 Northcote Rd, SW11 6QL (7350 2262/www.lolarojo.net). Clapham Junction rail.
Indian | Oriental | Italian | Cheap eats | British | Vegetarian | Gastropubs | Best service | Best to impress | Best for grazing
37 comments
Well, this is my answer to that seemingly impertinent question. ,
Real Karahi Food - Hot Red Chillies in Eastcote all the way
the best turkish and meze to be found is i Olives and Figs restauarant in a small alley way in Spitalfields.I found the food is great value for money. Bring your own booze near Liverpool Street is just amazing. I am surprised there is no mention of the place.
??? no mention of Tayyab's? the most popular restaurant with the pakistani and bangladeshi community in London - always huge queues for a tabel - and unbeatable home cooked - on Fieldgate street
The Prince of Wales in Putney, is a hidden gem when it comes
down to Gastropubs. I go there regularly with my partner or friends and we travel over the water from fulham to eat/drink there. I really rate this place.. Has anyone been there?
this website rocks
It is one thing to debate about suitability of omnivorous critics reviewing vegetarian cuisine. I do feel that one may find such a standpoint to be a 'slippery slope' argument – surely such logic would conclude that only vegetarians would be competent to review veg meals, and one might similarly go on to argue that as the subtle differences between different Moroccan herbs may be lost to those unaccustomed (i.e. foreign), only native Moroccan food eating people (note: this is irrelevant of their race/colour, such a category only concerns that one's 'home food' is Moroccan) should be deemed truly competent to review Moroccan food, and so on. What I believe (and correct me if I’m wrong) to be the fallacy here is that the herbivores amongst us must remember that the meat eaters go vegetarian quite often (porcini risotto with truffle shavings anyone?) and it is only suitable that critics represent the mainstream. Like it or not, even for dishes which do not contain meat, the omnivorous palette IS the mainstream and therefore justifies an omnivorous critic. In any case, I accept that this itself is a contentious line of reasoning and do believe debate on this topic may not necessarily be unhealthy.
It is, however, a completely different animal (pardon the pun - I couldn’t resist) to talk about ‘the harmful effects to the environment’ eating meat indirectly causes, and I suspect I am not alone in being quite irritated by the veggies’ pretentiousness in the matter. Sure, cattle may consume part of the Earth’s resources. But are you suggesting that we cull all cattle and livestock in order to ensure that there are more resources left for humankind? Or is your proposed solution to let them all go back into the wilderness? For surely, they will consume as much resources in the wild. Why stop at livestock anyway? Why not start terminating humans whom you deem unfit and a waste of Earth’s resources? For surely, humankind as a species uses up the Earth’s resources the most – makes more sense to address the real issue at hand. Yes, I am being sarcastic. All I’m trying to say is- since when did preferring broccoli to beef suddenly make you guys rulers of the universe?
Let’s also not forget that there are a million ways in which veggies themselves can help reduce the burden to mother nature that they themselves are causing. Recycle more. Invest and donate into research for renewable resources. Cycle around, don’t drive. Watch your carbon footprint. Instead of acting like you are the saints of this world simply because of your dietary preferences, get off your high horse, and if you care about the environment so much, go do something about it. Otherwise, the L.s and S.s, and Tommos – you really are just full of organic fertiliser.
Michael,
Buy the Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide. There is a section on Haute Cuisine. Just be aware in London that there are some expensive restaurants that don't have very good food and some cheap ones that have very good food. Also try the red star recommendations in each section, you can tell by the average pricing which are the more expensive/ "exclusive". (Note Hakkasan is expensive & has very good food) but is far from exclusive (as it is basically a canteen style restaurant with a beautiful interior).
Could someone out there please tell me where I could get a copy of a guide/brochure of the best restaurants in London eg Simpson the Strand, Rules, La Gavote, Connaught Hotel,Gay Hussar etc.
In a nut shell - expensive, exclusive, up market!
Vegetarian/Vegans out there do not seem to understand that the majority of people in London are not vegetarian. Hence restaurant numbers in the review are weighted towards those catering to omnivorous diets.
We recently went to Amaya during our first visit to London and had an unforgettable meal. It was one of the highlights of our trip.
M.moss - your argument falls over at the first hurdle!!! If you object so much to the resources it takes to produce wheat, you'll be comforted to know that 70% of grain and cereals grown in the US are fed to animals reared for the meat industry. It takes 16 pounds of grain to produce 1 pound of meat. According to Compassion in World Farming, about 20% of the world's population could be fed with the grain and soybeans fed to US cattle alone!! On top of this, a 2006 United Nations report summarised the devastation caused by the meat industry by calling it "one of the top two or three most significant contributors to the most serious environmental problems, at every scale from local to global." Need I say more?!
i used to live in Snaresbrook, England and The Carvery was a great resturaunt!
it really bothers me the way that ciprianni, zuma, nobu, jaks ( the most amazing well priced food i have ever had in my life on walton street) are not mentioned. I should be a bloody critic
Hey, i think the following places are worth a shout for ultra cheap eats...all up the west end
Bodean's, best burgers in town from 5quid with chips.....
Indian YMCA...unfussy authentic indian food, curries from 3quid...
Rasa,,,,South Indian food....there lunch box menu is really amazin
Icco....pizza from 3.50.and they are actually really nice...much better than pizzahut....though that wouldnt be hard
Italia Uno(charlotte st)amazin meatballs with rice for