Bars & Pubs

The Coach & Horses
This is still branded Norman’s Coach & Horses after the legendary landlord, Norman Balon, but the old bugger’s gone now and it’s becoming – shudder – a young person’s pub (6). Nonetheless, it’s largely bearable apart from the occasional advertising berk.

Best drink Drink vodka and tonic, in memory of Jeffrey Bernard and admire the back-lit 1960s logos for Double Diamond, Inn Coope and Skol lager as you order it.
When to go For the best chance of getting a seat, go early in the week or mid-afternoon.
Best seat Sit at the back of the bar – furthest away from the Greek Street entrance – near the toilets. This is where the Buzzcocks sit on their occasional visits.
Best snack Advertises free pies with a pint but, annoyingly, doesn’t always offer the pie or explain how to get it. Norman would approve of that.
29 Greek St, W1 (020 7437 5920).
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De Hems
Technically not in Soho, but just a short stroll over Shaftesbury Avenue, this West End institution (7), built in 1890, was quickly leased by a retired Dutch sea captain who saw a gap in the market for an oyster bar in London’s glittering West End, and proved an early adopter of the theme-pub concept by plastering his walls with the discarded shells of his punters. The place quickly became a meeting point for passing Netherlanders, and was a regular haunt of the exiled Dutch Resistance during World War II.

In 1959 it was renamed De Hems in honour of the Captain (having spent its first 69 years as The Macclesfield) and has stuck like glue to its Dutch identity to this day, although it’s now owned by the Mitchells & Butlers group, which also fields the All Bar One, Nicholsons, O’Neill’s and Scream brands. Just as the British like to marvel at English ‘pubs’ when on holiday, so Dutch tourists still flock to De Hems, but this boozer is no mere tourist trap, and has a strong following among Londoners who lap up its extensive range of continental beers, from the punishing Delirium Tremens (which clocks in at 8.5 per cent alcohol) to the ‘girly’ beers (the barman’s word, not mine) like Floris and the strawberry-flavoured Früli. The menu, too, is doggedly Dutch, although some exotically named items turn out to be things like ham and eggs, and there is also a strong Thai theme on account of Holland’s imperial past – chicken satay and d spring rolls can both be found if you’re not in the mood for deep-fried cheese.

Downstairs is a spacious bar with hard-wearing wooden flooring and high stools and tables, all of which testify to the fact that the place is absolutely rammed on Friday and Saturday nights. The upstairs room, open in the evenings only, is the jewel in the crown – a large, relaxed, modern space, full of comfortable seating, and a supremely inviting place for an early supper and a relaxing pint after work. There are even a few oyster shells left on the wall, though (this being 2007) they have been painted off-white and ironised as a design feature.

Best drink Kwak is very popular, mainly because it comes in a funny glass.
When to go On Saturday nights there’s a DJ and much of the seating is moved out to make room for the crowds; seekers of a quiet pint and a sit-down should aim for earlier in the week.
Best seat Anywhere upstairs.
Best snack Bittergarnituur – mixed platters of Dutch snacks to share. Lisa Mullen
11 Macclesfield St, W1 (020 7437 2494).

The Blue Posts
A friendly local downstairs (8), but the upstairs room is this pub’s strong point – it’s used as an art exhibition space (at the moment you’ll find a series of strident anti-war paintings by Robert Druce) and features a combination of comfy sofas and long, workmanlike tables where you can scoff a quick lunch and ponder the legend above the bar, which reads: ‘The here, the now through which all future plunges into the past.’

Best drink Duvel.
When to go It’s quietest early in the week; there’s live music on Sunday evenings.
Best seat Upstairs by the window.
Best snack Homemade seasonal soup and a baguette.
28 Rupert St, W1 (020 7437 1415).

The White Horse
A well-run Sam Smith’s establishment (9) with plenty of room at lunchtime. Since the demise of the Lyric and the Red Lion, this is the last remnant of proper drinking in this south-west corner of Soho. Full of Yorkshire people, if you like that sort of thing.

Best drink Sam Smith’s Organic Cider.
When to go It’s round the corner from Shaftesbury Avenue, so ideal for a couple of pre-theatre tipples.
Best seat Sit by the unused fireplace at the foot of the staircase, above you the strangely tall ceiling and its geometric-patterned paper make this feel a little like a western saloon bar.
Best snack Potato wedges with sweet Thai sauce.
45 Rupert St, W1 (020 7437 5745).

The Star & Garter
Far enough north to feel slightly out of Soho (10), so refreshingly free of anyone who works in the film industry.

Best drink Bloody Mary.
When to go Too small to visit later in the day, so get in bang-on 11am opening.
Best seat In the back lounge, beneath the oval and square mirrors arranged one above the other.
Best snack Pork scratchings.
62 Poland St, W1.

The Shaston Arms
Pleasingly erratic arrangement of rooms. Sells wonderful beer from the Badger brewery in Dorset (11).

Best drink Badger ale.
When to go The perfect place to while away an afternoon – any later in the day and you’re going to have trouble with the narrow stairs down to the toilets – before it fills up at 5.30pm.
Best seat The first booth on the left.
Best snack Spicy spirals.
4 Ganton St, W1 (020 7287 2631).