• Bottling out

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    Wine lists that shine
    If it's too much bother trying to negotiate the hazards of a wine list - with or without a sommelier - there are some excellent restaurants in London that offer good-value drinking across the board. Andrew Edmunds in Soho, Le Colombier in Chelsea, Ransome's Dock in Battersea, RSJ on the South Bank and the Terrace in Kensington - all have low mark-ups. A good example is a Morton Estate 2003 sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, which costs £18.50 at Andrew Edmunds - just one and a half times the off-licence price. Mid-range Italian restaurants also offer well-priced wines, thanks to the close relationship between Italian restaurants and suppliers. Enoteca Turi in Putney, Metrogusto in Islington and Riva in Barnes all have great choice and minimal mark-ups. As Martin Lam of Ransome's Dock says, 'Costs don't have to affect wine to the extent that they do. All that bleating about central London rents and rates is just a lot of nonsense.'

     

    Good-value picks
    Choose an unfashionable grape or a lesser-known region, and you can get away with paying as little as £25 for a good wine. Here are some reliable options.

     

    Grapes
    • riesling from Germany
    • grüner veltliner from Austria
    • sauvignon blanc from South Africa
    • chardonnay from Casablanca and Leyda in Chile o primitivo and negroamaro from southern Italy
    • grenache (called cannonau) from Sardinia
    • albarino from Galicia in Spain
    Regions
    • Portugal: non-fortified wines from the Douro region
    • Italy: Campania and the Val d'Aosta
    • France: Cairanne, Rasteau and Costières de Nîmes in the Rhône and Gaillac, St Véran or Viré-Clessé in Burgundy, plus the Côtes du Frontannais in the south of France
    • Spain: Castilla y León and Málaga

      Why are costs so high?
      The house edge
      Choose carefully


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