Marquess Tavern

A booking line open only during office hours had us worrying that pretension had taken hold at the Marquess, winner of Time Out's Best Gastropub award in 2006. But fears quickly dissipated on arrival. The front half remains a true, pubby bar, serving the entire Young's beer range. The glass-roofed dining room at the rear has a pared-back aesthetic of white and wood. Simple English cooking is the aim, with starters including devilled whitebait, smoked sprats with horseradish cream, and a seasonal salad of soft lettuce, radishes and young goats cheese. Devon crab came whole, with tools for cracking and picking. Winningly restrained poached chicken sat in a clear broth with chunks of carrot, celery and potato; roast lamb was lovely too. You can also get roast rib of beef to share: available joints are listed on the blackboard by weight and size, and crossed off as each is ordered. For desserts, chocolate pudding was intensely flavoured, while gooseberry fool boasted a practised balance of tart, sweet and creamy ingredients. This is one of the few venues in London conscientious enough to note vintage changes on its wine list, a fact typical of the Marquesss attention to detail. We still like it. In July 2008 owners and operators, the Underdog Group, sold off The Marquess Tavern to an independent owner. The new management intend to run the gastropub without any major changes.

Services

Available for hire: Separate room for parties, seats 14
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted (until 6pm)
Outdoor tables: 6, patio

http://www.timeout.com/london/bars/9319.html