Bars & Pubs

Deserved success in converted pub premises in East Dulwich has led Franklins to open a second venue in Kennington. This one is much more of a restaurant, with tables outside in a pleasant courtyard, and a small bar area near the entrance. The mint-green decor feels a little dated, but its nice enough, with comfortable chairs, leather banquettes and lots of light. Lunch or dinner, the focus remains British; as well as puddings such as rhubarb trifle or treacle sponge, theres a choice of savouries. Smoked eel with caramelised apple and bacon vied with summer truffle risotto for best starter, and a main of wild rabbit with girolles, peas and bacon also went down a treat. The odd dish out was fennel, artichoke and tomato tart the ingredients sitting on a disc of unappetising pastry. We wished wed ordered smoked Old Spot chop with a fried ducks egg instead. Many of the simpler dishes are available on the blackboard bar menu. Its perhaps too early to tell, but on this years showing we prefer the East Dulwich branch; the standard of cooking and service is similar at both, but there seems a jollier atmosphere in SE22.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008