Bars & Pubs

By Richard Ehrlich

Whenever David Collins gets his hands on a bar, you know you're in for something plush and memorable. His design vocabulary does not include the word 'minimalist', but somehow he manages to make everything work together, even when the individual elements are grand and elaborate.

The Artesian, reopened after a hugely expensive Collins makeover, is no exception. Some of the features sail nervously close to OTT, especially the vast back bar with its Chinese-Chippendale references and the massive chandeliers combining glass and wood. But a subdued colour scheme makes the total effect soothing rather than imposing.

It's a suitable setting for cocktails served in the grand style, expertly made and swimming in remarkably beautiful glassware. Rum takes centre stage, with a 50-strong list growing steadily as the staff are trained in each new variety (the sign of a classy bar). Cocktail-hounds can choose from four lists, the top billing going to Signature Cocktails and Luxury Rum Cocktails. Prices are serious, at £11-£14.50.

Hotel guests feature heavily among the clientele - as you would expect in a place that's open all day - but there are lots of locals too, and some of them are totally into the spirit of the place. One couple drank their way through the entire Luxury Rum list over four hours, accompanying their drinks with the sort of bar snacks that would make a good meal if you were so inclined. Prices run from £9-£18 for dishes such as fillet steak and portobello mushroom sandwich, lobster club sandwich with avocado mayonnaise, tiger prawn and vegetable tempura, and sharing platters of chicken, charcuterie, cheese and vegetable meze.

If you want extremely good cocktails with all the trappings, and are willing to pay the price, Artesian is a well you might want to dive into.

Time Out London Issue 1910: March 28-April 3 2007