Scolt Head

Österreichischer Rundfunk is not an R&B artist, but Austria's equivalent of Radio 4. Last week one of their presenters interviewed me, concerned about the conversion of London's pubs into gastropubs. It seems that from Salzburg to Graz, Austrians are deeply concerned that London's boozers are 'disappearing' as they are gentrified. I endeavoured to put their listeners right: serving decent food does not mean the demise of a pub, it can mean a whole new lease of life.

Scolt Head is a case in point. It's in a corner of Hackney where having pool tables and a giant TV screen is still a pre-requisite for survival; but the new owner, Rosie Haines, has smartened it up considerably, tearing out the old carpets and limiting smoking to the small urban garden. Decent beer is now served: Timothy Taylor Landlord, Deuchars IPA, and Fullers London Pride (all £2.70), among others. The wine list is brief but thoughtfully put together, listing good producers rather than the more obvious choices.

Trish Hilferty used to be the chef of the acclaimed Fox gastropub, which is now under new ownership. Hilferty is instead doing a spot of cooking at Scolt Head (as well as Great Queen Street, left) as a consultant. The brief menu now changes daily, and shouldn't scare the regulars away: chicken, leek and potato pie sits next to the gnocchi and chocolate soufflé cake.

With simple dishes it's difficult to go wrong, and the kitchen seems to be working within its ability. It's difficult to get overexcited about dishes such as rump steak (cooked rare as requested) or smoked haddock fish cakes, but they were all competently prepared using good ingredients. This is straightforward, unaffected cooking with most main courses costing under a tenner.

The pub still feels like a utilitarian locals' pub, and has not been overgentrified. There is, for example, no resemblance to the real Scolt Head Island, which is a National Nature Reserve on the north Norfolk coast, one of the most beautiful saltmarshes in England. I don't expect people from Fulham will be driving here to eat (as they do to Norfolk's Burnham Market), from which Hackney locals can take further delight.
Guy Dimond

Time Out London Issue 1915: May 2-8 2007

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Latest user reviews

A great place!Unsurprisingly,the Scolt Head reminds me of the Fox.A rather healthy aversion to gimmicks,frills and bandwagons makes this gastropub a firm favourite.Gravadlax,potato salad and pickled cucumber,Bucatini all'amatriciana,Eton mess may not be ''innovative and influential'', but it... [More]
Anonymous  Jul 4 2007

The scolt head really refects the essense of the neighbourhood. With great ales and wines aswell a wide range of good food this newly renevated pub is a true gem of the area.
Anonymous  Jun 22 2007

I was concerned this new pub would be another arsey gasto pub but have been pleasantly surprised. The pub is a good blend of pub and restaurant with high quality well priced food. It was a shame you cannot smoke in there but i did see kate moss having a drink which was a bonus.
Anonymous  Jun 12 2007

Yesterday we moved into our new home on Culford Road. We decided to celebrate by trying out our new local 2 minutes walk away, The Scolt Head. It was a warm evening and the beer garden looked lovely. Ten of us sat down for dinner including some friends and our 3 children. Contrary to previous... [More]
Haig Robins  Jun 2 2007