Bars & Pubs

By Jenni Muir

These days, not being rushed out of the door so that gastropub waiters can make way for a new table of diners is something of a surprise. But the friendly, laidback attitude of staff at The Noble left us tired and frustrated. Were they ever going to see if we wanted dessert/another drink/the bill? If we hadn't gone back to the bar - twice - then I fear we'd still be there, slowly petrifying.

Things started well: a warm welcome, a cosily bedraggled ambience, a great drinks selection. There's Deuchar's IPA, Leffe Blond and Addlestone's cider on tap, plus Strawberry Früli in bottles. A blackboard offers 24 wines by the glass, including champagne and dessert wines, and the barman impressed, both with his knowledge and recommendations. The brief, well-considered cocktail list features contemporary watermelon-basil and elderflower-ginger martinis alongside classics such as caipirinha, bellini and amaretto sour.

Service was perfectly attentive when it came to ordering food, too. The limited list of simple salad and soup starters didn't appeal, so we turned to the tapas-style menu of dishes for sharing. While some had a paprika-flavoured Spanish sensibility, there was a notable fusion edge, as in the tasty tuna tartare with white miso served on wonton puffs. Crisp, rich morsels of battered baby squid were delicious whether eaten alone or accompanied by their hot-and-sour dressing.

Mains of pan-fried salmon with wasabi mash and lemon beurre blanc delighted, as did confit of duck leg with succulent tomato-chilli jam, but when we finally did manage to extract dessert from them, our chocolate fondant arrived bland and dishevelled, and panna cotta without the advertised kaffir lime syrup.

A proper drinkers' pub with decent, good-value food, The Noble's intentions are indeed noble - it's the attention that needs improving.

Time Out London Issue 1920: June 6-12 2007