Bars & Pubs

By Charlotte Thomas

The team behind the popular Winchester pub in Islington has brought its pub-cum-DJ lounge concept to Ealing in the shape of The Lodge Tavern. After a few teething problems since opening in April, things now appear to be running smoothly.

The look is hunting lodge-meets-Victorian members' club, with timber clad walls, trophy antlers, flock wallpaper and dark wood furniture. This contrasts with the urban cool of the lounge music soundtrack, and live DJs who play weekend evenings. It's a risky fusion, but works, creating an unpretentious, laidback and slightly quirky atmosphere - the kind of thing for which Ealing's younger residents have long been crying.

Friendly bar staff know how to mix a decent cocktail, and alongside classic recipes there are seven house elixirs, including strazberi sling, which is a refreshing Pimm's and vodka concoction. On tap are everyday beers like Kronenbourg, Guinness and Foster's, but more effort has gone into selecting the short but diverse wine list.

Like the drinks, the food (served until 9pm weeknights and 10pm on weekends) is reasonable but not adventurous. Think meat-and-two-veg mains, burgers, sausage and mash, Sunday roasts and some 'light bites'. But the quality of the ingredients and presentation is a cut above the average pub-grub.

A snack-sized starter of nachos was free of tinned gunk, with a delicious homemade salsa and guacamole (plenty of avocado, not too lumpy). The corn-fed chicken supreme on spinach risotto with rocket was just right; the meat moist and tender with a crisp wrapping of Parma ham, the risotto expertly al dente with a subtle vegetable-infused flavour. Veggie sausages with mustard mash and red wine gravy was well executed, too.

Ealing isn't Islington, and the Lodge Tavern is unlikely to become a serious destination bar, but an injection of subdued style like this is just what locals need.

Time Out London Issue 1926: July 18-24 2007