Bars & Pubs

By Jenni Muir

Over almost 300 years, The Bald-Faced Stag has been a rough sports bar, live music venue and a private house where travellers were illegally served beer and ale. Most recently it attracted young ruffians and, when Realpubs took over the property, they threw out 'four pool tables, 12 televisions, a video jukebox, carpets, microwave oven and crime'. They've added a large dining room and landscaped the outdoor space which, despite its proximity to the A1000, is quite pleasant with its stone slabs and parasols.

What they haven't done, however, is forgotten that this is a pub. The bar area is still sizeable and on our visit offered three real ales - Flowers IPA, Grand Union Bitter and Black Sheep - plus some good bottled beers such as strawberry Früli. Thirteen wines are offered by the glass. Modish bar snacks include wasabi peanuts, olives, whitebait and plates of Spanish foods to share.

The decor is reassuringly standard-issue for a modern gastropub, with cool lampshades, greeny-brown paint and panels of floral flock wallpaper. From the open-plan kitchen, bouillabaisse came in a terracotta dish with chargrilled bread and aioli. It was good, apart from the mussels. A sprawling lamb shoulder was tender and thoroughly done, served with leeks and rosti. We were less enthusiastic about the chalky, sweet topping of the rhubarb and apple crumble.

The Bald-Faced Stag's not one of those gatropubs with Michelin aspirations, but it's one of the best dining options in the area.

Time Out Issue 1931: August 22-28 2007