Bars & Pubs

By Andrew Staffell

The Red Lion pub's been on the block since crooked haircuts were but a twinkle in Hoxton's eye, but during the last decade or so it's carved out a niche as a cosy place to pass a little downtime amid the prevailing mayhem.

The pub's first-floor room, though, never quite found its purpose. At busy times it soaked up the overspill from downstairs, but it always somehow seemed removed from the fun. That's presumably why it was rented out to a succession of restaurateurs hoping to make something more of it. But none to date have succeeded.

The latest pretenders to the challenge are serving food that's somewhere between ordinary pub grub and gastropub fare ('Modern British', they say). This is certainly more consistent with the RL's unfussy, proper-boozer atmosphere.

There are some good omens. The head chef is Patricia Phespresert, who has cooked at two acclaimed gastropubs, the Junction Tavern, NW5 and the Engineer, NW1. The prices are very keen: everything on the menu is under a tenner, a policy which, we're told, will be strictly observed. And the room itself is a delight, with its low ceiling, calm, green patterned wallpaper, stripped floor and dainty wooden furniture, plus a striking painting of a giant rose at one end.

The food is familiar, homely and, most importantly, cooked well. Pea-and-mint soup was richly flavoured and as more-ish as you'd hope. A chorizo, green bean and rocket salad was fresh and warm and delicately dressed. Main courses include classics like battered cod, fishcakes and caesar salad, steak and chips: all proficient, though our rare steak should have been juicier. Also offered: pan-fried chicken, pork belly sandwich, lamb burger, lentil curry, butternut squash and goat's cheese tart.

There's certainly room for improvement and polish. On two visits - the first just three days after the new kitchen had opened, the second a month later - service was a little clumsy and amateurish, even though we were among the only diners. That it was still as quiet on our second visit suggests that the new venture hasn't been an instant hit. Can the curse be broken? We hope so. Give the RLDR a try: it's a good little find.

Time Out Issue 1934: September 12-18 2007