Bars & Pubs

By Andrew Staffell

We took our chances and didn't bother booking a table to dine at this refurbed gastropub in Chiswick, where Chris Payne, previously head chef at Archway's popular St John's gastropub (no relation to St John restaurant in Clerkenwell), is now cooking. Should be okay on a Wednesday night, we thought. But alighting at Turnham Green tube station in a thick rush-hour crowd, we suddenly panicked that we wouldn't get a table.

Au contraire! The place was nearly empty. A few souls were dotted around the large central bar of the pub's front section; but only two couples punctuated the expanse of the separate rear dining room, whose emptiness was further emphasised by its lofty ceilings and polished wood floors.

This is leafy, gentrified Chiswick, where people have money to burn and gossip to churn; so why wasn't this swish new place teeming with neighbours curious to try out their new local?

One possible explanation: it was formerly a sports/TV pub with a pool table and Elvis nights, so the makeover probably demands a radical change of clientele - obviously not an overnight process. Another: Chiswick is already blessed with ample eating options, including some fine gastropubs. Perhaps another gastropub just isn't exciting news in these parts. The new Duke of Sussex is from the people behind the Realpubs chain (The Oxford in Kentish Town,The Old Dairy in Crouch Hill, etc) though it's not actually part of that group.

The lack of bustle in the Duke of Sussex didn't kill the mood for us - and it meant we could share a leather banquette for six between two. Low lighting, ubiquitous rich woods and chandeliers still managed to stoke a cosy, relaxed atmosphere. These gastropub design staples are complemented by some more idiosyncratic features, including cherubic friezes up high in the dining room.

Nor does the cooking conform lazily to the hackneyed, same-old gastropub template. Some things are familiar (pea and celeriac soup; brawn with gherkins and toast; skate with white beans and salsa verde; 28-days steak and chips). But you've also got some Spanish dishes to choose from, such as salt-cod croquettes, fabada (white bean and pork stew), and Galician fish stew. It fits in perfectly. This is simple, hearty, rustic food: what gastropubs are all about.

We stuffed ourselves on huge, rich, delicious portions of the two stews and enjoyed some fresh salady things on the side. There wasn't really anything to criticise. A couple of minor gripes probably wouldn't have arisen if the kitchen had been a bit busier: the skate salad was a bit too cold; the rice in the fish stew slightly undercooked. Trivial things, and no scar on the experience. In the end we couldn't manage dessert, but pored nevertheless over the selection of chocolate caramel tart, strawberry fool and shortbread, blackberry and apple crumble, honeycomb ice cream and cheeses. Next time.

Thumbs up for a wine list that's diverse, interesting, long enough, very good value and offers most bottles by the half-bottle carafe. We tried two Portuguese wines (one white, one red) and would gladly order them again.

Service from a single waitress was exceptional, but then, with so few diners, anything less would have been a shocking failure. But it wasn't mere attentiveness: she struck just the right balance between helpfulness and familiarity.

It's great value, too. Having eventually drunk a bottle and a half of wine between two of us, we were amazed to get out for just £65. So, jaded Chiswickians, have faith: this is more than just another gastropub on your doorstep. Hurry along while you can still get a six-person banquette and a first-rate waitress all to yourselves.

Time Out London Issue 1937: October 3-9 2007