Bars & Pubs

By Simone Baird

Maybe it was the unexpectedly sunny weather or perhaps it was the soundtrack of Balearic chill-out, but there was something very bank holiday weekend-ish about this Brixton Hill corner pub on our weekday evening visit.

Formerly the George IV (infamous for hard dance after-parties), the SSB is a far more relaxed incarnation. The large beer garden overlooks a busy road, but there are enormous trees on the other side, fairy lights in the hedge and a barbecue which provides most of the short menu. Inside, the back room is still open, hosting mostly R&B nights, while the main bar area is a curious mix of styles - a stark black chandelier dominates the room, hanging alongside studenty paper lanterns, with low leather sofas set up airport lounge-style in the middle of the room.

Drinks are the usual lagers plus Guinness, Strongbow and some fairly typical pub wines. When paying for our food upfront we were told that there was a £1 card charge (though the offer of cashback sweetened the blow).

Hummous and crudités came with bread toasted on the barbecue and could have been a meal in itself. Fish of the day, salmon lightly crusted with cracked pepper, was overdone, but fortunately the simple steak came perfectly medium rare. Token iceberg lettuce leaves and sliced tomato made for a disappointing salad although the chargrilled corn cob was delicious. At weekends, locals might enjoy the all-day breakfasts off the barbecue.

Time Out Issue 1932: August 29-September 4 2007