Bars & Pubs

Little remains of the grubby pub the Queens Arms once was. The interior has been completely refitted; its now light-wooded, adorned with flatscreen TVs and spotlessly clean. Though theres a bar menu, most customers head upstairs to eat in the posher dining room. The food is too intricate at times the menu boasts Italian, French, Thai, Turkish and British flavours but generally impressive. A starter of fried soft-shell crab with brioche and tomato confit was intriguing and full of flavour, the crab in particular. Smoked haddock fish cakes were dense and professionally made. Then came the mains. A dish of high-quality lamb was rather over-complex: not only cannon and shank and cutlet, but also a roquefort tart (a pedestrian mini-quiche that didnt fit at all). Likewise, roast halibut with gnocchi worked in part, the white flesh tender, but scallops wrapped in ham were a distracting addition. A huge cone of cookies and cream ice-cream almost drew a laugh when it arrived; we were too full. A total of 15 wines are served by the glass. Staff were lovely, untroubled by a sizeable crowd.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008