Bars & Pubs

You could walk past the Fat Badger’s uninspiring ground floor – sofas and newspapers scattered in equal measure, self-conscious punters selecting from numerous expensive lagers but only one real ale – without realising that the restaurant upstairs is something of a gem. A large sweeping corner staircase leads you to this airy room, decorated in clever-clever ‘Shoreditch’ flock wallpaper (repeated motifs of muggings and alkies on park benches); leading off is a small but sweet roof garden. The weekend menu offers brunch staples such as kipper and fried eggs; or black pudding, pea purée and poached egg. There are also lunch classics like roast halibut with braised summer veg and bacon, and a superb roast featuring Welsh beef and yorkshires. While we would have been happier with slightly larger main-course portions, we were grateful for the space to tuck in to an immense sticky toffee pudding: the largest we’ve ever had placed before us. A chocolate brownie, served with vanilla ice-cream, was also filling. Two great ways to treat yourself after a long Sunday haul along Portobello Market.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008