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Traffic roared around this forgotten building for years, but only recently did anyone care enough to put this two-floor bar and restaurant in it, magnificent yellow stucco exterior, statues and all. Inside, gaslights flicker in the etched glass, and the bar menu reflects the quality of the Modern European fare above - onion and port soup (£4.50) and pork belly (£14.50) are among the options. Beers have been similarly cherry-picked: you don't see draught Elman's Pond, Paulaner and Cruzcampo everywhere. Cocktails come by the glass (£6-£8) or pitcher (£19.95), including a Hat & Feathers Breeze of Smirnoff Black, cranberry and pineapple juice. The wine list numbers 50, six each by the glass. A side terrace is heated in winter and breezy in summer: lovely if you can manage to ignore the honking Clerkenwell Road traffic.
Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9
London's best review, food and drink news
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