Bars & Pubs

Set in a no-man's land near Chelsea Harbour, there's not much to look at from the large windows of this horseshoe-shaped corner pub - but the chefs at work behind the huge L-shaped bar that dominates the interior will monopolise your attention anyway. As the layout implies, food is the main focus here, and has an enviable reputation; on our last visit, poached haddock and spinach fish cake (£7) and roast pumpkin and rosemary risotto with truffle oil (£9.50) were worthy of double the price tag. High ceilings, neutral colours and hard surfaces make for a stylish if cold look; the odd battered church pew can't turn this über-gastropub into somewhere you'd feel particularly at ease just dropping into for a drink.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9