Bars & Pubs

Slap in Soho bar central, this conspiratorially dark drinking den seems to have changed little since it first offered the eponymous coffee and idle chatter in the 18th century. Draught Wadworth 6X, Marston's Pedigree, John Smith's and San Miguel now pull in the punters, who gather beneath the stuffed fish and birds, and promotional mirrors from the days of guineas and shillings. The merlots, muscadets and chardonnays are cheap, from £3/glass, £12.50/bottle, should a stray female waltz in, while lunchtime grub is of the ketchup-with-everything variety. An anomaly, then, that no-one has yet seen fit to rectify by turning day-glo or retro or something.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9