Bars & Pubs

A carefully crafted look is the first thing you notice at this elegant gastropub: gleaming woodwork, a bit of bare brick, lofty windows letting in floods of light on to tastefully muted colours. Australian owner Jasper Cuppaidge has given plenty of attention to other details too. A microbrewery in the basement produces distinctive ales. Staff are among the best we’ve found in any gastropub – quick, aware and attentive, as well as brightly friendly. The refined (but decently priced) wine list is put together with the same care, and ingredients are diligently sourced from farm producers. So it’s a pity the cooking doesn’t have more flair. A salad of pumpkin, chicory, stilton and spiced walnuts was lovely, but in goat’s cheese with Blythburgh ham, beetroot and french beans, the vegetables all lacked flavour. Sunday roast beef (with fabulous yorkshires and horseradish) was fine, but the roast spuds and other veg were lacklustre, while a venison and red wine pie was ordinary. After all the build-up, we expected something more exciting.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009