Bars & Pubs

By Guy Dimond

Changes are afoot at The Connaught, grande dame of Mayfair's hotels. Following the closure of Angela Hartnett's restaurant, a refurb is in progress in preparation for the arrival of French chef Hélène Darroze; and the American Bar's stuffed animals have gone into storage while it is also redecorated, to reopen as The Connaught Bar in summer 2008. In the meantime, The Coburg Bar is the hotel's destination drinking spot - and it's everything you could hope for in a smart hotel bar. Firstly, there's no velvet rope barring your way, and no door-nazi attitude; you just walk right in. The congenial staff seem genuinely pleased to see customers, and the service is faultless - slightly formal, but certainly not standoffish.

The room's been redesigned by Parisian designer India Mahdavi in a way that oozes sophistication, with modern touches (Julian Opie portraits) that enhance rather than distract from the historic character of the room. The wingback chairs are deep and comfortable; the leather and velvet are pleasingly tactile. Tip-top nibbles (olives, posh crisps) appear unbidden and free of charge. The cocktail list is a fascinating read, as it charts the origins of the cocktail from Sours up to the modern day; most of them are greatest hits of the last two centuries.

The bartenders make excellent drinks using the best spirits, and will fix drinks just how you like them. Although most of the cocktails cost £12 a glass, they're worth it. The wine list is similarly exemplary, but pricey, with an emphasis on top French marques. Other customers tend to be moneyed, middle-aged and as well-dressed as you might expect in a five-star hotel - so don't show up here wearing your baseball cap and sneakers.

Time Out Issue 1971: May 29-June 4 2008