London's best review, food and drink news
By Charmaine Mok. Photography Rob Greig
The first time we rang Aaya's reservation hotline, we were greeted with an engaged tone. Five minutes later, the same infuriating doot-doot-doot. An hour later and ten attempts at redialling, and we had almost given up. Was this new Japanese joint already inundated with eager gourmands demanding a table?
Well, it might have been if the phone number on its press release was correct. A BT direct enquiry later, we finally had the right number, and a reservation.
To cut to the chase, Aaya's food is very good indeed. Favouring modern interpretations of traditional classics, it excels in dishes such as grilled yellowtail cheek with soya daikon and chive, and king crab with ponzu jelly. Both were triumphs, and the latter an impressive show of clean, fresh flavours and pleasing contrasting textures. The sashimi platter, with plump, sweet scallops among the offerings, was positively painterly in presentation, with lovely garnishes. We also enjoyed the delightful little morsels of faultlessly made nigiri.
The kitchen has definitely got it right. Everything else was slightly questionable. The food is reasonably priced, yet the wine list (while thoughtfully crafted) raised a few eyebrows, with some bottles marked up four times their retail price, and most of the list starting at £25, rising steeply. The atmosphere was a tad too City and a bit too clubby - yet we ate, as in the neighbouring budget Japanese cafés, with disposable wooden chopsticks, sat on uncomfortable chairs, and drank from flimsy plastic cups. Staff clustered around the back of the restaurant, looking bored with life. It is a perplexing experience when a restaurant gets one thing right - the food - and the rest doesn't really compute.
Time Out Issue 1970: May 16 - 22
|
|
London's best review, food and drink news
|
|
The best of London in your inbox
Up to the minute picks of the best things to do in London, delivered to your desktop.
|
|
My girlfriend and I, and my old manager that we bumped into in the pub next door, happened upon Aaya (confusedly signed New Era outside, a name which seems to suit the style of the venue) when the place we wanted to eat said 22:30 was too late to be seated. Thank God they turned us away because Aaya's food is sensational.
Initially, and especially when you're confused by the proliferation of eatery's in this part of town, I was sceptical of the decor. Immaculately designed, with two very presentable girls in Sci-Fi silver dresses on reception, this is metro minimalism in AD2041, Japan. I thought they were trying to hard - but that's how I think when I'm eyeing-up restaurants in the West End.
Seated at the long cocktail bar, we ordered some normally named but abnormally spiced drinks, at about £9-£11 a hit before being seated.
The cocktails were very good, in spite of their plastic receptacles, and delicately flavoured the way they know best, which explained why we weren’t familiar with them. Sitting down, the atmosphere is informal and convivial. The architecture affords is stylish and hard edge but manages to be gentle with it. The attention to detail and toilets reassure you that your experience matters.
We ordered a mixture of dishes, which I’m not clever enough to remember in the vernacular. The lady serving us was helpful, understandable (that’s becoming more important in London), and understanding. She explained that we could re-order after each round if we wished, but that the dishes would not arrive in order (we should avoid placing a structure around eating and just enjoy it as it comes).
Each dish was superbly presented. The yellowtail tuna, the warmest dish of the night, was quite exquisite on the eye and tongue. Each dish was subtly yet vibrantly flavoured. The sashimi melted in the mouth and our naive little palettes were in frenzy. Okay, I should speak for myself. I was quite awestruck by just how good Japanese cuisine gets and I will most certainly head back there.
Cost: between £3.50 - £6.50 per dish, some £15 dishes in there, too. With cocktails flowing, we spent £60, although I reckon you could cut back and be very content spending £30 for a lunch or pre-theatre dinner. For the quality of food, its very fairly priced.
Wine: no idea, I don’t even remember looking. Sorry.
Luke